Peptides are one of the latest entrants into the world of cosmetic ingredients icons. But, do peptides work to correct skin imperfections like wrinkles and acne scars or do they just inflate the price of cosmeceuticals? To address this question, its important to understand the causes of skin damage and the effects of peptides on the skin.
Today, to talk skin damage is to talk collagen and peptides. Collagen holds a central role in the overall look and health of the skin. Collagen and moisture loss typically accompany skin damage, like wrinkles and acne scars. Moreover, as the skin ages, the skin's cells make less collagen and the collagen that is available is broken down faster.
The rate at which collagen is made is regulated by a network of hormones and numerous biological factors, including peptides.
Peptides have generated interest in the arena of removing acne scarring and wrinkles because of the way specific peptides influence the skin. One such peptide is called "transforming growth factor-β" (TGF-β). In laboratory study, skin cells treated with TGF-β produced two to three times more collagen than cells not treated with TGF-β.
How Do Peptide Affect the Skin
Taking a more practical look at peptides' effect on the skin, in 2003 researchers tested a skin care product containing a combination of growth factor peptides on the skin of 14 study participants. The findings were released in the Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Surgery.
At the study's conclusion, skin biopsies revealed new collagen formation and an increase in thickening of the epidermis by 27%. Eight of 14 patients saw wrinkles improvements and 12 of 14 experienced improvements in their skin texture.
Researchers have even examined the peptide containing cosmetics that you are most likely to find at your local drug store.
Popular Versions of Peptide Creams at Local Drug Stores
With a quick browse through the cosmetic aisle, flip over the box of an anti-aging or skin correcting product and you may find "pentapeptide-3" (marketed under the trade name Matrixyl) in the ingredients list. Companies sale pentapeptide-3 as an anti-wrinkle product based on its ability to promote collagen growth.
In addition to pentapeptide-3, you can also find products with "Argireline", or acetyl hexapeptide-3, as it will appear on the ingredients panel. Argireline is a synthetic peptide manufacturers acclaim as a topical alternative to botulinum toxin injections.
As a wrinkle reducer, acetyl hexapeptide-3, is based on the concept of wrinkles receptor blocking. Acetyl hexapeptide-3 mimics the actions of acetylcholine. Acetylcholine is a chemical that transmits messages between the nerves. As such, acetylcholine has the ability to influence muscle relaxation. In theory, acetyl hexapeptide-3 blocks the sodium pathway to muscles.
The presence of sodium can cause muscles tension. Once the sodium is blocked by the copy cat peptide acetyl hexapeptide-3, the muscle can remain relaxed without the presence of tension induced wrinkles.
And finally, while skin care shopping, you may see products that contain marine collagen. The theory here is that collagen begets more collagen, and thus increasing the skin's thickness while reducing the appearance of wrinkles.
Comparing Peptide Creams to Botox
The hottest tagline for these peptide and collagen based cosmetics is "Better Than Botox". Botox is the trade name for botulinum toxin type A, an FDA approved drug designed to correct wrinkles. A study recently published in Dermatologic Surgery pitted Botox, against a placebo saline injection, and three different cosmetic products, that claimed superiority to Botox.
One product contained Pentapeptide-3, the next Acetyl hexapeptide-3 and the third product contained marine collagen that utilized a patented skin delivery method.
In all, 77 women divided into groups of five participated in the study. An outside investigator measured wrinkle improvements in the skin using the Facial Wrinkle Scar scale, at weeks 4, 8 and 12 after the treatments. The independent examiner noted the most improvement with the patients treated with Botox. The examiner found a minimal difference between the placebo injection of saline and the other three wrinkle creams.
In short the effectiveness of peptide based cosmetics depends on several items, the percentage of the peptide used in the product and the effectiveness of the peptide delivery method. A present, most studies of the efficacy of peptides are done by the product manufactures themselves. More studies are needed to quantify the effectiveness of peptides to correct wrinkles and acne scarring. In the meantime, peptides containing cosmetics still remain a hot item.
Nevertheless, if you are set on purchasing peptide based cosmetics, there are at least two things you should do to get the most out of your product and your money. Use the cream at least twice daily (unless directed otherwise) and deeply cleanse your face with a gentle but thorough agent such as witch hazel prior to applying the peptide. This extra step will help maximize abortion of the skin care product because the witch hazel removes excess oils and dead skin cells from the upper layers of the skin.
Naweko Nicole Dial San-Joyz founded Noixia, a San Diego based research firm dedicated to helping people intelligently, safely and affordably enhance their image by offering custom skin solutions to people with acne scarring [www.Noixia.com] on the face and body. San-Joyz She has appeared on
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